Remove the old copper faucet dangling above the laundry room sink, extend the copper pipes below the sink basin, install cut-off valves, close the wall and finish. Finally add a nice shelf.
When using the blowtorch, do not start a fire or set yourself on fire. Have fire retardant materials on hand to act as barriers or shields (a piece of fire retardant dry wall is a good heat shield to prevent cooking things you don’t want cooked).
In case the above doesn’t work out for you, have a fire extinguisher handy.
The dust from sanding is not good for you. Cover your face and eyes and work in a well-ventilated room.
When painting, make sure the room stays well ventilated.
When water is spraying everywhere for the hundredth time while working with the plumbing; try to relax, you’ll live longer.
- pipe cutter
- blow torch
- sand paper
- wire brush
- a bucket
- Philips screwdriver (electric or on a hammer drill)
- tape measure
- utility knife
- level or a straight edge
- drywall mud knife
- paint brush
- paint tray
- staple gun
- ball shut-off valve (x2)
- 3-ft copper pipe (x2)
- copper pipe elbow (x2)
- copper pipe connecter (x2)
- 5-in-1 faucet kit (includes fixture, flex connectors (x2), PVC pipe for a trap, plumbing tape, and drain plugs).
- copper nails
- copper pipe mounts
- 3-ft of 1×3 wood
- drywall screws
- aluminum tape
- drywall sheet
- drywall compound
- spray glue
- drywall tape
- shelving L brackets
This will take a few days. You will need to let the drywall compound dry before sanding, and again if you re-apply. You cannot paint wet drywall compound, no matter how much you want to.
- Shut off the water to the location you are going to be working.
- Drain the location as much as possible. Any remaining water will cool the copper pipe and make soldering that much more difficult.
- Cut away any unwanted pipe or fixtures.
- Clean the remaining pipe with either the wire brush or sand paper until the surface is smooth and free of any debris.
- Cut your copper pipe to size, placing elbows and connectors as required.
- Clean the new pipe of any debris with the sand paper or wire brush in preparation of soldering.
- Place your first segment of pipe.
- Light the blowtorch, heat the pipe, and apply solder the joint. Clean the solder of any trace debris in the flux. Ensure you have a consistent seal.
- Repeat step 8 for all remaining segments of pipe.
- Get your bucket.
- Test your soldering.
- If your soldering fails. Disassemble, clean your pipe thoroughly and try again.
- Once your soldering is successful anchor your copper pipe to the 1×3 piece of wood (or any scrap wood available) with the copper nails and copper mounts. You should use copper because science.
- With your copper pipe successful either solder on your ball shut-off valve or if using a sharkbite attach and tighten.
- Replace any insulation removed from the wall.
- Replace any plastic vapour barrier.
- Cut your dry wall to size to cover the exposed area. Use as few pieces as possible so as to limit the amount of mudding and sanding.
- Fasten with dry wall screws
- Spray glue the seams of your dry wall sheet.
- Apply dry wall tape.
- Apply your dry wall compound evenly. Remember you will be sanding it off.
- Let the compound dry.
- Sand and smooth the wall.
- Re-apply dry wall compound, let dry and re-sand if necessary.
- Paint the wall.
- Using a level mark a line roughly where you want your shelf to go.
- Mark the joists (use a stud finder if required) with an x on your line.
- On your marks fasten the shelving L brackets.
- Place your shelf on your L brackets and attach.
- Connect your flex connector to your shut-off valves.
- Assemble the faucet fixture on the sink basin.
- Test the faucet fixture (have your bucket ready).
- If the fixture is not leaking and your plumbing is a seamless connection from the wall to the spout, then and only then place your sink against the wall and fasten the basin to any supports. Otherwise you will be working around the basin while water is shooting everywhere.
- Go have a nap; you’re probably tired by now.
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